In the not-so-distant past I declared my undying love for the combination of sunshine and margaritas. There is just something magical about the impending summer heat and the way it compels me to track down the nearest taco truck in order to satiate my cantina cravings. On a picture-perfect Memorial Day weekend I was struck by this exact desire and vamos’d my way to Taqueria El Tejano.
The distinct red taco truck has been a fan favorite in the Three Rivers downtown area, once parked in the vacant lot on Michigan Avenue next to the Elks Lodge. Throughout the pandemic crowds would gather (and appropriately social distance) for an opportunity to score some of the freshest and newest Mexican cuisine in this small town. Fast forward a few years later, and Taqueria El Tejano has found a more permanent location in the parking lot of Confluence Cannabis, located at 104 US-131. On any given day there is a lengthy lunchtime line of patrons hungry for what the taco truck has to offer.
On a sunny Saturday, my partner and I were kid-free and decided it would be the perfect opportunity to scoop up a taco or two and make a picnic of the beautiful day. One glance at Taqueria’s menu, though, and all bets were off — there was no way we were leaving with only one entree. The truck’s offerings were extensive and included items such as street corn, a Big Texan quesadilla, Birria ramen, and walking tacos. I’m fairly certain I took one look at the delicious menu, blacked out, and ordered blindly. We were thoroughly impressed that, despite a constant line during a lunch rush around noon, our large order was ready within 15 minutes.
As soon as we found a quiet and breezy spot near Memory Isle, we unboxed our treasures. The first to-go box popped open to reveal the Taco Sampler ($10). This included four tacos — ground beef, chicken, carne, and chorizo — and our choice of corn or flour tortillas. We opted for the corn tortillas, and each taco was garnished with a generous portion of diced onion and cilantro. Though I am one of *those* who believes cilantro tastes more like soap than herb, I wanted the authentic experience and appreciated it was diced so finely.
These tacos might sound simple, but they were heaven-sent. I tried a bite of the chicken option first, as I was the least excited for it and foolishly wanted it out of the way. This chicken was packed with flavor and chopped into very small pieces, not shredded as I had expected. It was mild with zero heat, and a perfect option for someone wanting a more subtle entree. We loaded our bites with the verde sauce included, which added a bright and tangy zip.
The ground beef taco was next, and my date and I both loved this option as it was a bit more adventurous than the chicken. The beef was spiced and paired gloriously with the smokey red sauce included. The carne asada taco was up next, and became our immediate favorite after our first bites. The steak could not have been cooked more perfectly, having a fatty, juicy, and luscious flavor we could not get enough of. Lastly, the chorizo taco surprised me as it is a meat option I would not typically order, yet I loved the way it brought a unique and spicy kick to our meal.
Because we didn’t have enough tacos in our bellies, I also ordered two of the birria tacos ($6). Birria is a meat stew from the state of Jalisco, and marinated in an adobo made of vinegar, dried chilies, garlic, and herbs. The tacos are made with tortillas stuffed with the meat stew, dipped into the stew, and then fried. Taqueria’s birria tacos left us speechless and hungry for more. Each bite was packed with flavor, dripping with the juice from the stew, and loaded with tender, shredded beef.
Realizing in a panic we were dangerously close to being full before trying the rest of our meal, we armed ourselves with our sporks and set forth upon our next course: tamales ($4). We had intended to only order one tamale a la carte, and didn’t even bother to ask what flavor or variety of tamale we were receiving. When we popped open our to-go container we saw we had been given two, and they were still steaming with heat despite the fact we had ordered 30 minutes prior.
Stuffed with the most delicate and juicy shredded chicken tinga and wrapped in pillowy-soft masa, these tamales were one of the best things I’ve eaten in a long time. The tamale speaks for itself plain, but the addition of either provided sauces took this dish to an intergalactic level. Alongside the tamales we also had an order of rice and beans ($3), which provided a mild, yet lovely palate-cleanser in between bites of more powerfully-flavored items.
The total for our meal was a mere $23, which left us shocked. Taqueria’s portion sizes are generous, not to mention the quality of each item is unmatched. For a little over 20 bucks we were stuffed to the brim, still had leftovers to bring home, and spent less than we would have at a certain fast food taco establishment, which shall remain nameless. Three Rivers has hit the jackpot with Taqueria El Tejano and, though I am no psychic, I foresee it becoming a staple in my sunny summer diet.
Beca Welty is a staff writer and columnist for Watershed Voice.
